rootlessdreams

…is apparently the Beta for topping out the scariest V5 ever:  Secrets of the BeeHive.  Again, for the non-climber reader:  Beta- information or trickery on how to climb a particular climb/boulder problem.  Butt-Scum-  is not what you initially thought when you read the heading of today’s post, but it is when one uses their butt (apparently the left cheek in this case) to hold one’s self on the rock in order for a glorious ascent!!  The Butt-Scum beta has not been tried yet, but our next journey to the Beehive area will decide if it works or not.  At the point in which the Butt-Scum is used, you are about 20+ feet up and totally pumped from the steep climbing to reach the upper crux.  We tried every way but the butt-scum and we could not send the problem….it is basically terrifying.  You have to grab a terrible pinch, mantle up a bit to set your left cheek on the jug.  After getting your butt on, you have to somehow bring up your foot and stand-up.  If you fall here, it would be really bad.  Just hanging off the jugs and dropping was scary enough.  I can’t imagine what it would be like to fall.  We will go back….I’ll let you know how it goes.More climbing news includes three flashes back to back on Jedi Mind Tricks during our session Sunday.  Also, while warming up, I managed to punch the rock and destroy my hand….I posted pics of Jedi and my bloody hand…..check ‘em out.Our time is counting down for Bishop.  So little time left and so many unsent projects.  Eric and I will hopefully go on a rampage before we leave.  If not, I’m sure we’ll be back.Besides our climbing in Bishop, I wanted to let everyone know about the hottest news from this week.  My good friend Josh Reyes sent his Project during the Triple Crown at Horse Pens 40.  I feel an attachment to this climb because I was there all summer spotting him while he worked it.  It has some scary moves at the lip with a great landing.  By great landing I mean a tree and sloping ground with rocks everywhere.  One fall I remember good is when Josh bounce off the tree and elbowed me in the face….Anyways, it is now no longer a project.  It is God Given V10.  Congratulations Josh!!That all I have for now.  Hopefully I’ll have stories of epic sends after our afternoon session today.  Thanks again to all who sent me Bday wishes….sorry my phone was out of service to receive the calls.  I really enjoyed the messages though.  Taker Easy-Matt